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We're just back from our Caribbean land-and-sea holiday, and already are dreaming of turquoise waters and warm, sunny days.
The trip actually got off to an adventurous start. Our Ottawa-Newark flight was cancelled due to snow in the NY area, causing us to miss our connection to San Juan. We were booked on an 11:15 out of Ottawa, that would connect with a 4-hour layover and getting us into San Juan at 9:30pm. We figured, any day that ended with us being in Puerto Rico would be a good day. Leaving our home at a normally reasonable time of 8:45, we soon found ourselves in gridlock traffic, despite a relatively light snowfall here in Ottawa. For much of the way we thought we would miss our flight, and thus be forced to spend the day/night either at home or only as far as Newark. Our neighbours made a yeoman's effort in getting us to the terminal by a few minutes before eleven o'clock, where we were informed that we'd missed the cutoff but could try getting through security and customs. Fortunately the aircraft was a few minutes late coming in, and that allowed us to get through to the gate by boarding time.
And indeed, by the end of a day of travel, at 11pm local, we were at the Hyatt Dorado Beach just outside San Juan, the sounds of the coqui tree frog indigenous to the island filling the humid nighttime air. A late-night walk on the beach was definitely in order.On our first full day in Puerto Rico, we awoke to sunshine pounding surf, and vowed to return to the beach before sunset. On the schedule were the Rio Camuy caves; the Arecibo observatory, where they listen for activity beyond our planet; and the hill town of Lares, surrounded by coffee plantations, home to a somewhat well-known heladeria specialising in ice creams in unique flavours such as rice and beans, plantain, avocado, tomato, beer, garlic, and standard tropical delights such as mango, passion fruit, etc. See the pictures for more details of all, as well as of our beach fun later that day and the next morning.
On the last full day before the cruise, we drove into San Juan, and settled in the Wyndham Old San Juan, where we were upgraded to a concierge room and enjoyed a fine view of the old city and port from there and the rooftop pool. After taking in the old city, ocean views and El Morro (the old Spanish fort), we dined at Dragonfly, a Latin-Asian fusion restaurant that more than met the rave reviews we'd read, offering such delights as peking duck nachos, szechuan seared tuna, and a potent mojito-martini. We awoke the next day to see our ship, Constellation, in port, and were anxious to get on board.
It was worth the wait, we can say, and with eager anticipation we boarded shortly after noon and were greeted warmly with a glass of champagne. We strolled about the ship until 1pm, when our cabin was ready, and took advantage of a nearly-empty ship to take boatloads of pictures. We ate lunch outside on the aft patio, an area we frequented throughout the cruise, whether for breakfast, lunch, or sushi dining. That afternoon we relaxed poolside, had our first dinner in the (main) San Marco room, took in a show, and participated in the 10:30pm muster drill before Constellation sailed away at 11pm. The experience on deck was electric as we made our way through San Juan harbour and out onto the ocean, the party band Prodigy playing as guests enjoyed mojitos and a Caribbean buffet well into the night. After retiring to the small but smart cabin, we tracked our progress on the TV's map channel, and the following morning turned on the TV to see the bow of the ship and blue water around us.
We'd slept like babies, the gentle rocking and the total darkness of an inside cabin combining for a peaceful night's sleep we'd not had in quite some time. And yes, it was like this every night, in the relatively placid Caribbean seas.
Monday was our only day at sea, and we slept in once again after having taken in the midnight tropical fruit buffet and deck party (complete with palm trees set up around the pool area) well into the night. It was an ideal time to relax by the pool, be pampered and, and take in an elegant afternoon tea. Monday night being the first of two formal nights, we got dressed up (Jen in an evening gown, Ari in tux) and went to Ocean Liners, Constellation's specialty restaurant. The spoiling and pampering only intensified, with a bottle of Chateauneuf des Papes, lobster veloute, veal chop, lamb encrusted in puff pastry, Grand Marnier soufflé AND chocolate soufflé. The service was even more individualised than in San Marco -- at one point, Ari left the table for the washroom, and upon return the waiter came running over towards our table to make sure the timing was perfect to have Ari's chair pulled out and pushed in when he sat down. Our sommelier, Ivo, from Bulgaria, was both well versed in wines and quite the conversationalist, and the entire staff gave us an experience we'd never forget. They asked if we'd be back, and we made plans to dine at Ocean Liners the last night.
Tuesday was Barbados, where we walked into a busy cruise terminal (complete with steel drum bands) and hired a gentleman named Cedric to drive us for a few hours around the island, visiting an old church, an orchid garden, and gun Hill Signal Station, and getting plenty of local history and tales along the way. We did some shopping back in Bridgetown, and walked back to our ship for lunch and a quiet day on deck.
Wednesday was quite similar, Grenada this time, a poorer island but also one of great beauty. Here we visited Annandale Falls and the rain forest, saw some spices, and got plenty of local feel before spending a bit of time on Grand Anse Beach, often called one of the Carib's best. We tendered back to Constellation and experienced a rainbow upon departure, one that seemed to be directly in front of us with both ends in the water. Later Ari enjoyed a cigar at sunset on the aft patio while Jen got a massage at Aquaspa, and we both took in dinner (with tablemates from St Catherine's, Ontario), a show, and a moonlit stroll on deck.
Thursday we pulled into St Johns, Antigua, where we were met by Eli Fuller of Adventure Antigua for a day-long eco-tour. We went around by boat, 20 of us, enjoying spectacular close-up views of some of Antigua's reputed 365 beaches, and took in sights on neighbouring islands. We had three snorkeling opportunities, one climb up Bird Island for a great view, a tour through mangroves, and plenty of local stories and history courtesy of Eli, whose crew served us homemade lunch before we went to Hell's Gate, climbing through a small cave that led from Caribbean to Atlantic. On the return to St Johns we were treated to freshly made rum punch, lots of lime, sugar, and local rum, making for a totally relaxing afternoon that had Ari asleep on Constellation's deck, burnt, as we left port. We were sure to make it for dinner, though, dressed formal again as we had prime rib and lobster, and of course the Baked Alaska parade saluting our water Janusz, form Poland, and the whole team. We then changed out of tux and dress, into robes for couples spa time, then back into formal wear for the show, and finally the Grand Buffet, a spectacle in the main dining room featuring shrimp, lobster, hors d'oeuvres galore, and a beautiful presentation of desserts amidst ice sculptures and the string quartet. The first 30 minutes were only for photos, and it was all worth the wait.
Friday was St Thomas, and though we'd originally planned to take a taxi, ferry, and another taxi to get to Trunk Bay on the island of St John, we felt 'beached out' and stuck to shopping in Charlotte Amalie and a great view from Paradise Point. That night once again we dined at Ocean Liners, slowly winding down our time on Constellation. Saturday morning was actually sad for us, leaving, but we knew we'd be coming back, having booked a 10-day cruise on her sister ship, Summit, for the same time next year. So that tells you how much we enjoyed Celebrity Cruises and Constellation, recently voted best cruise ship in the world by Conde Nast Traveler readers. It's an honour well deserved. The ship is beautiful, inside and out, reminiscent of an old ocean liner here and there, with the proper modern touches. The people, however, are what make the ship special. The place is kept spotless, constantly being cleaned. The crew are always smiling, always helpful, from carrying your tray at the buffet to having a stateroom attendant acting as butler to remind you of reservations, cater to your needs, and make sure you're always enjoying the cruise.
Yes, we were sad to leave her, and we most assuredly look forward to our Summit journey next year. To any of you pondering a cruise sometime in the future, we wholeheartedly recommend one. And remember to tip your crew nicely; they come from all over the world to work 12-15 hour days, seven days a week for months at a time, and make your vacation a memorable one.
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Click to see the travel destination photos and cruise ship pics
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